In the age of smartphones and smartwatches, it’s not surprising that the classic wristwatch still holds a special place in a man’s wardrobe. Smartwatches may be functional, but they lack style. They lack class and then lack personality. A good watch is more than a tool to tell time—it’s a symbol of personal style, craftsmanship, and attention to detail. But with so many options on the market, what really makes a good wristwatch for men?
Let’s break it down.
Movement
The heart of any watch is its movement, which is essentially the engine that powers it.
- Quartz watches are battery-powered, affordable, and extremely accurate—great for daily use. They are a highly utilitarian option, but many watch makers are blending the classic style of more expensive and intricate mechanical watches, with the simplicity, and hassle-free maintenance of a quartz powered watch
- Mechanical watches (manual or automatic) are powered by intricate gear systems. These are prized for their craftsmanship and heritage. Often categories as an item of jewellery, a well made mechanical watch is quite an impressive piece of machinery.
If you appreciate engineering and tradition, a watch with mechanical might be worth the investment. If reliability and low maintenance are your priorities, quartz is a smart choice. Or you can go for a hybrid option!
Build Quality & Materials
A good men's watch is built to last. Here’s what to look for:
- Case Material: High grade stainless steel is the gold standard—durable, resistant to corrosion, and stylish. Titanium is lighter and tougher. Ceramic offers a sleek, scratch-resistant finish.
- Crystal: The glass covering the dial should be sapphire crystal or K1 mineral glass —extremely scratch-resistant and clear.
- Strap/Bracelet: Whether it’s leather, metal, or rubber, the strap should feel solid and comfortable. Quick-release straps are a bonus for versatility. Aviation themed watches seem better with leather straps, especially if you’re going for the vintage look
Design & Style
Your watch reflects your lifestyle and taste. What kind of mood are you in or what occasion do you have in mind? Is it more formal, sporty, or just casual?
- Dress Watches: Slim, minimal, and elegant—ideal for suits and formal settings. Look for a clear display with minimal clutter, a good contrast between the dial and the batons or numerals, and a good looking, well made strap. Again, leather is best here, ideally with a pattern (like an alligator skin look)
- Dive Watches: Rugged, water-resistant, and bold—perfect for everyday wear. These are often bulkier watches with a rotating bezel and heavy duty, screw down crowns
- Chronographs: Feature stopwatch functionality and a sportier look. Aviator, or Flieger watches definitely fit into this category. Back in the day, a stop watch was an essential part of navigating, so this feature wasn’t there just for looks. A Tachymeter (used to measure speed) serves a similar purpose. The multi dial look is very attractive and in the right watch, can be used for formal occasions as well
- Field Watches: Simple, legible, and military-inspired—great for casual or outdoor use.
Go for something timeless over trendy. A classic design will still look sharp 10 years from now. At Focke Wulf watches we’ve made it a point to design our watches around exactly this principle.
Water Resistance
Even if you’re not diving into the ocean, water resistance is very useful
- 30m: Handles light splashes—barely.
- 50m–100m: Suitable for everyday use, including rain or swimming.
- 200m+: Built for water sports and diving.
For everyday peace of mind, aim for at least 100m water resistance. Beware though, the watch may endure the rain, but your strap may not! Choose a watch that has a decent strap that can endure the elements.
Comfort & Fit
A watch should feel as good as it looks. It should sit comfortably on your wrist, not too tight or too loose. Some brands have recently introduced large dials that exaggerate the presence of a watch. We feel this is a passing trend and will fail the test of time. The watch case shouldn’t overwhelm your wrist or get lost on it. As a rule of thumb:
- Smaller wrists (under 7 inches): 38–42mm case size.
- Larger wrists: 42–46mm.
Try different sizes to find what feels and looks best.
Brand Reputation & Heritage
While not everything, the brand can say a lot about the quality and service you can expect. Brands like Seiko, Citizen, Oris, Tissot, and Hamilton offer excellent value. On the luxury end, Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, and IWC bring prestige and masterful craftsmanship. It’s worth noting that often the movements used by even the most prestigious brands are shared across more budget friendly options. So often the choice can be more about aesthetics and fit, as the heart of the watch (the movement) is the same.
It's also worth noting that microbrands like Focke Wulf watches offer great quality and design at reasonable prices.
When it comes to aviation watches, Focke Wulf watches scores very highly thanks to its rich past building some truly iconic aircraft
Value Over Hype
A good wristwatch doesn’t have to cost thousands. What matters more is how well it’s built, how it fits your lifestyle, and how much you enjoy wearing it.
Don’t fall for hype or trends—choose a watch that aligns with your personal style and values. You can find amazing pieces in every price range, from under $200 to high-end luxury.
One strategy is to look at the money spent on advertising. If a brand has a stable of a list celebrities promoting their products, a large part of the price you pay for the watch is going towards paying for the endorsements. The actual value of the watch itself could be quite small.
Final Thoughts
A good men’s wristwatch is a blend of style, functionality, and quality. It should be something you feel proud to wear—whether it’s a tool watch you take hiking or a sleek timepiece for a formal event. Choose wisely, and your watch won’t just tell time—it’ll tell your story.